A fresh perspective on the golden age of New Zealand climbing

Throughout the 1950s world-class mountaineer Brian Wilkins was a key player in landmark mountaineering expeditions both at home and abroad. In Among Secret Beauties: A memoir of mountaineering in New Zealand and the Himalayas, he recounts many of his experiences for the first time.

In 1954, chosen as one of 10 climbers for the New Zealand Alpine Club expedition to the Himalayas, Wilkins climbed in consort with Sir Edmund Hillary, attempting peaks to the east of Everest. The Barun area was less accessible and had not been subject, as Everest had, to mass assault.

The expedition was fraught with setbacks; at one point, Hillary was overtaken by a mysterious illness. ‘We carried Hillary to the top of the slope. He was deteriorating rapidly. We had to descend without delay,’ Wilkins wrote in his diary.

Hillary suffered two narrow escapes from death and Wilkins was in a unique position to take the measure of his famous compatriot in extremis.

Among Secret Beauties sheds new light on this hugely significant expedition: twenty first ascents were made and, together with fellow climbers, Wilkins pioneered many new routes.

Six months after his return to New Zealand Wilkins made the first ascent of the Northeast Ridge of Mt Aspiring. Experience in the Himalayas enhanced his confidence; nonetheless, stranded in a harrowing storm ‘it was a climb that tested our survival skills to the limits’.

Of the Southern Alps, Wilkins writes, ‘These are the mountains that made me.’

Among Secret Beauties is a vivid, warmly told and insightful memoir. Wilkins is an astute observer who also submits the writings of his contemporaries to robust critical appraisal.

The book is profusely illustrated with photographs and maps.

About the author:

Brian Wilkins retired in 1988 from a career lecturing in pharmaceutical chemistry. He has been a keen tramper and climber all his life. Brian is the father of Damien Wilkins, Director of IIML at Victoria University.

Among Secret Beauties

A memoir of mountaineering in New Zealand and the Himalayas

 By Brian Wilkins - Otagto University Press

 ISBN 978 1 877578-48-9, $45

www.otago.ac.nz/press