THE SOUL COOKBOOK

Among the books awaiting my return from overseas was this stunner.
Published to mark the 10th anniversary of Auckland's famous Soul Bar & Bistro the book includes seventy five of the restaurant's favourite dishes with gorgeous photographs by Aaron McLean along with outstanding shots he has taken of the restaurant and its Viaduct Harbour surrounds.I reckon this feature makes the book especially valuable as a gift for overseas family and visitors.

The photos set the scene for the restaurant and celebrate Auckland’s harbourfront playground.

A tribute to one of the country’s most high profile and innovative restaurateurs as well as one of Auckland’s best known restaurants, the book includes information on Soul’s staff, its special events and has recipes influenced by guest chefs, including Greg Malouf and Enrique Olvera. It even includes the dish Head Chef Gareth Stewart prepared when he was auditioning for this job!

Soul’s proprietor Judith Tabron has had a glittering career in the restaurant industry, both as a chef and as a restaurateur. After being head chef at Hotel de Brett in early 1980’s, Judith headed to London and worked at L’Escargot. On her return to Auckland she held head chef positions at several high-profile restaurants, including Sails, and was general manager at Mikano. Judith opened her first restaurant Ramses almost twenty years ago, with the late John Lewis — possibly a first for a woman in the Auckland hospitality scene at that time. 

Last night I made the greenpea risotto with goat's feta and brown butter recipe from the book and it was superb although I have no doubt when I try the chef's version of it on my next visit to Soul I will notice my  own shortcomings! The publishers have kindly agreed to allow me to reproduce the recipe and Aaron McLean's photograph of the dish so here they are:

green pea risotto with goat’s feta +  brown butter

With its fresh peas and mint, this risotto is a celebration of spring. It can be prepared ahead, as in the restaurant, and then the various components are finished together very easily. It is excellent served with grilled hapuku.

1 small onion

4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

500ml vegetable stock

200g Ferron risotto rice

100ml dry white wine

500g fresh shelled peas (or frozen)

120g Parmigiano Reggiano, grated

150g butter

2 tablespoons mint leaves

2 tablespoons finely chopped chives

salt and pepper

1 lemon, juice only

150g goat’s feta, crumbled

8–12 pea cress shoots

serves 4

In a medium-sized heavy saucepan, sweat the onion in half the olive oil over a low heat. In the meantime, bring 400ml of the stock to the boil and keep on a very low simmer. Make sure the onion is cooked through but 

still translucent before adding the rice. Seal the rice for approximately
5 minutes and then deglaze with white wine.

As soon as the white wine has evaporated, start to add the vegetable stock, ladle by ladle, stirring all the time. When all the stock is incorporated, take the risotto off the heat and transfer to an oiled tray to cool down. The rice should be stiff and the grains still quite separate.

Blanch 400g of the fresh peas for 3 minutes in salted boiling water. (If using frozen peas, just defrost then blanch in boiling water for 45 seconds.) Drain the peas and purée in a blender until smooth. Chill immediately in the refrigerator.

To reheat and serve the risotto, place a medium-sized saucepan over moderate heat with the remaining extra virgin olive oil. Add the remainder of the fresh peas and the par-cooked risotto rice. Turn the heat up to high and stir with a wooden spoon. Add the remaining stock little by little as if you were starting again. Once all the stock is incorporated and the rice is cooked, add the pea purée, Parmigiano Reggiano, one-third of the butter and all the herbs. Season the risotto to taste with salt, pepper and a little lemon juice.

To prepare the remaining butter, simply heat it in a small saucepan and allow to brown before finishing with lemon juice and a pinch of salt.

Serve the risotto in bowls, sprinkle the crumbled feta on top with the pea cress and spoon the brown butter over the whole.

THE SOUL COOKBOOK

Judith Tabron & Gareth Stewart

Random House NZ - $60.00

This handsome, truly appealing book is an appropriate acknowledgement of Judith Tabron's significant contribution to Auckland's lively restaurant scene.