The Pipi philosophy is about family, fun,
nurturing, good simple seasonal food, and love. These are all universal things,
but Pipi gives them the New Zealand twist.
I am informed that for those of us have never been lucky enough to
go there that Pipi is a bright pink restaurant in the heart of Havelock North where
the food is divine. It is said to be a warm and inviting place filled with fun, where you
are treated as a local even if you’re not one, and where you can sit at a table
with strangers and leave as friends. And I can tell you after reading this gorgeous book, publication tomorrow 5 April, from cover to cover the very chance I get to go to Hawkes Bay I'll be off having first made a reservation at Pipi.
The gentle hands that have created this place and this book are those of Alexandra Tylee. The path that lead Alex here is a long and
complex one. There was deep despair and heartbreak and a healing that only
comes from dedicating yourself to something with all of your heart and soul.
But along the way Alex was buoyed by spirit, and nurtured by love. From this
journey came Pipi the restaurant (in all of its incarnations) and now Pipi:
The Cookbook.
I suspect that Pipi: The Cookbook captures some of the atmosphere and the
recipes which make up the essence of Pipi. Alexandra says that each recipe made in the kitchen of
Pipi, or found within these pages have two things in common, the food must be
simple and it must nurture the soul not just the body. As Alex says,
“Pipi has evolved.” First there was Sydney, then Greytown and now Havelock
North. “The menu has grown but the philosophy is the same: simple food cooked
with attention to detail and care. I am not trying to reinvent the wheel, just
perfect and stay true to the original one.”
Photographer Brian Curly’s extraordinary
photographs show off Pipi at its best, and you can’t help but be tempted to try
the recipes when you gaze upon their deliciousness. Soups and risotto’s, Sunday
Lunch, Vegetables and Salads, Children’s Birthday parties, all are gorgeous and
will inspire you.
The publishers have given me permission to reproduce below a recipe I made (and which I warmly recommend) from the book along with Brian's photograph of the dish.
Pipi: The Cookbook is one I will treasure and give a prominent place on my cookbook shelf.
About the author:
Author, Pipi owner and chef Alexandra Tylee learnt to cook
providing meals and smoko for the workers on the Hawkes Bay farm where she grew
up. With no formal cooking training she made her way through Mrs Beeton’s
cookbook, and realised that if she followed a recipe carefully then she could
make anything from puff pastry to chicken stock. The same can be said about her
recipes.
Pipi: The Cookbook
Author: Alexandra Tylee
RRP: $65.00
Random House New Zealand
Champagne and leek risotto
Serves 4–6
I love the idea of champagne risotto. It
seems rather decadent and also fun, which it is, plus it tastes very good. You
do not have to use the very best French champagne but you do taste it, so use a
sparkling wine that you would happily drink. It seems such an obvious fit to
put salmon with this risotto, but you don’t have to. It is lovely with just the
leek and the Parmesan, or a little pan-fried prosciutto folded through at the
end is good too.
50g butter
1 dessertspoon olive oil
500g leeks, tough outer leaves discarded,
cut into ½cm slices
500g Arborio rice
1 litre bubbly
1 litre chicken stock
50g butter
500g hot smoked salmon
small bunch dill, finely chopped (optional)
1 teaspoon salt
white pepper
handful of spinach
½ cup grated Parmesan
Heat the butter and oil in a large, heavy
frying pan on medium heat, add the leek and slowly cook until soft, 35–40
minutes.
Then add the rice, stirring until it is
opaque, about 3 minutes. Now pour in 250ml of the bubbly and let it cook until
all the liquid has been absorbed.
Meanwhile, heat the stock and 500ml of the
bubbly in a saucepan and keep it simmering away.
Now add the warm liquid to the rice a cup
at a time and keep stirring. When all the liquid has been absorbed, add the
last 250ml of bubbly. When this is almost absorbed the risotto should be
cooked, 15–20 minutes. You want the rice to have a wee bite with some liquid
remaining in the risotto, it shouldn’t be the consistency of porridge. Now melt
in the second measure of butter and fold through the salmon and the dill if
using. Season with salt and pepper.
Fold the spinach through the risotto and
serve it with the Parmesan sprinkled on top. Without the salmon, this is also
good as a side dish with any baked or pan-fried fish.
And check out the Pipi Cafe website here.
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