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Off the Shelf
By Katie Rice | Friday,
September 30, 2016
I am not a surfer. I have never spent a day on big, rough
waves in Hawaii or on small but perfect waves in Tonga. I am, however, a
rubbernecker. If there’s a stretch of beach where I can watch surfers bob
up and down in wetsuits waiting for a break, I’m there. William Finnegan's
Pulitzer Prize-winning memoir, BARBARIAN DAYS: A SURFING LIFE, is the
literary equivalent of sitting on the beach on a day with good breaks. READ
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